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Two cased (lined) hats were among trade goods left at NWC's Isle--la-Crosse post on June 4, 1786 [15]. Many Tender Ties : Women in Fur-Trade Society, 1670-1870. Duncan Mc Gillivray noted that he had 'a few cases of knives & hats' at Fort George on the North Saskatchewan River in 1794 [16]. Three of these 'knobbed' toques are blue, and two are white. Voices From the Rapids : An Underwater search for Fur Trade Artifacts, 1960-73. Some toques were brought into the Northwest by the NWC and HBC, and turn up on various inventory lists and in journals from 1786 onwards, described as 'milled caps' [9], 'grey milled caps', 'worsted caps', 'grey worsted caps' and 'scarlet worsted caps' [10]. Sometimes summer caps were improvised from handkerchiefs. They were folded so as to cover the top of the head and tied together on the forehead ('cleaning lady' style) [12], or made into a headband tied with a large bow in front [13]. Major changes in fashion during this period are also mentioned, when they are relevant.

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(Sometimes other items, such as tobacco, knives, beads, and vermilion, were also included in these 'equipments'.) In 1801, pork-eaters (summer voyageurs) received one blanket, one shirt, and one pair of trousers.

Hivernants, who were year-round employees, got two blankets, two shirts, two pairs of trousers, and two handkerchiefs [2].

Five years later, the company-supplied equipments changed slightly.

Artists portrayed voyageurs in crisp black top hats and battered brown top hats [18]. A Rindisbacher painting shows one voyageur wearing a battered brown hat with a tapered crown shaped like an upside-down flowerpot [19].

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The surviving Beaver Club medals show voyageurs wearing hats with round crowns and broad flat brims [20]. 'Milling' or 'fulling' is a kind of controlled shrinking which causes the cloth to get thicker.

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